Rabelais - Fine Books on Food & Drink

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Le Livre de Cuisine… Comprenant la cuisine de manage et la grande cuisine

Gouff?, Jules (1807-1877) Paris: Librairie Hachette et Cie, 1874. Quarto (27 x 18.5 cm.), xi, 841, [1] pages. Illustrated with twenty-five chromolithographic plates and one hundred sixty-one wood engravings after oil paintings and drawings by E. Ronjat. The chromolithographs were engraved by and printed by Regamy Chromolithography of Paris. FIRST EDITION. One of the great French illustrated cookbooks of the 19th century. The first published work of the renowned French chef and pâtissier, Jules Gouffé (1807-1877). Nicknamed "l'apôtre de la cuisine décorative", his work had a deep impact on the evolution of French gastronomy. "Cet ouvrage culinaire est, avec ceux d'Urbain Dubois, un des plus complets et des plus sérieusement traités qui existent; les recettes que l'on y trouvent sont fort recherchées, mais il faut avoir un budget assez important, affecté aux dépenses de table, pour pouvoir suivre les savants conseils de ce maître de l'art culinaire" (George Vicaire). "This work is considered one of the most important and most sought, though due to the varied materials required in the recipes, more suited to large establishment than to the ordinary household" (Katherine Bitting). Gouffé had been a student of Careme and was invited by Alexandre Dumas and Baron Brisse to be chef de bouche of the Jockey-Club de Paris in 1867. It was this position that gave him the stature and support to depart on his series of essential culinary works, this work being the first (1867), followed by Le Livre de Conserve (1869), and Le Livre de Pâtisserie in 1873. Le Livre de Soupes et des Potages followed in 1875. His work remains revered today, by great chefs including Bernard Loiseau, and by molecular gastronomy researchers such as Hervé This. Gouffé's work is rightfully placed alongside Francatelli and Urbain Dubois, the three chefs belonging to the generation following that of Careme; all three worked for significant European royalty outside of France; and all three bore responsibility for a range of significant culinary innovations. Gouffé's work stands out in this esteemed company for the sheer beauty of its presentation in book form, in good part because his publisher's embraced chromolithography at the height of its practice. The chromolithographic plates and woodcuts in this volume were after the paintings and designs of Etienne-Antoine-Eugene Ronjat (1822-1912), an artist with a remarkable skill in exact copying. He was one of the two painters responsible for the 1859-1860 reproduction of Gericault's Raft of the Medusa (1819). His exact copying skills were put to use illustrating Gouffé's works, achieving, in some cases, what might today be called Hyperrealism. ~ Some foxing throughout; adhesions to a few of the chromolithographs from tissue guards. In half dark blue morocco over marbled boards, and with a gilt-titled, compartmented spine. Some edgewear to the boards and spine. Original publisher's wrappers bound-in. Near very good. Provenence: with the Ex-libris of Paul Arnaudet, depicting an open book over which the decorative initials of Arnaudet's name are inscribed ('P A L'); in front of the book, as if the bars of a gate, are the elongated letters of the anti-Grolier motto ('Nunquan Amicorum') (1875). Paul Arnaudelt, "un bibliophile délicat", was a collector of the Romantics, whose books were auctioned at Drout in 1878. The Goncourt brothers called him "un homme sensuel, raffiné, amateur de bonne chère". The etching was made by Félix Bracquemond, who was placed by Walter Hamilton "amongst the modern French artists who [have] produced the most beautiful and characteristic bookplates" (Hamilton. French Bookplates, page 299). [Bitting, page 195, Oberlé 226; Vicaire 417].
Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book. What to do and what not to do in cooking. [WITH:] An inscribed cabinet photograph of Mary J. Lincoln

Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook Book. What to do and what not to do in cooking. [WITH:] An inscribed cabinet photograph of Mary J. Lincoln

Lincoln, Mrs. D.A. [Lincoln, Mary Johnson] Boston: Roberts Brothers, 1884. Octavo (19 x 13 cm.), 536, [7] pages. Additional blanks. Advertisements; fifty illustrations in the text. General index (table of contents) and alphabetical index. [WITH:] Cabinet photograph (16.6 x 10.75 cm.), by Stein, Photographer, of Milwaukee Wisc., of the author in three quarter view. The verso has a manuscript annotation in an anonymous hand, "Author of the Boston Cook Book. Head of Boston Cooking School", and inscribed by the subject, "With the compliments of Mary J. Lincoln". Very slight soil, otherwise fine. ~ [The book:] FIRST EDITION, SECOND (same year as the first), with sixteen advertisements on seven pages, rather than six on four pages. Both issues copyright 1883 but title page stating "1884". Except for the advertisements, the contents and pagination of the '84, '85, '86 and '87 printings are identical. The milestone cookbook from the first principal of the Boston Cooking School and a student of Maria Parloa. According to the preface, the work was "undertaken at the urgent request of the pupils of the Boston Cooking School, who have desired that the receipts and lessons given during the last four years in that institution should be arranged in a permanent form." Considered one of the first American cookbooks to provide scientific information about cooking and nutrition. It helped set the pattern of rational organization for cookbooks to come. Both famous and important, "this book marked a change in culinary literature. Having directed the Boston Cooking School (est. 1879) she [Lincoln] was able to arrange her material in an orderly plan, and to set it forth in plain, sensible language that housewives could understand. While it instantly became the standard kitchen companion, it had still greater effect in shaping the course of early work in domestic science in grade and normal schools. Fanny Farmer's Cook Book is a direct outgrowth from this. The New York book stores currently display the sixth complete revision, which states on the jacket that it is the 63rd printing, and that 2,286,000 copies have been sold to date [1947]." Number 86 of the Grolier Club One hundred influential American books printed before 1900. With twenty-one additional recipes in manuscript at the rear, including a few medicinal recipes, but mostly culinary receipts such as Fig Filling for Cake, Cornucopias, Vinegar Cookies, and Miss Kingsbury's Pineapple Cream. The interior variously soiled throughout and with wear to some fore edges; edge of dedication page trimmed; amateur repair to one leaf (pages 304/5). In half black calf over pebbled black cloth; spine gilt-titled and -compartmented. Hinges worn but holding; rubbing to corner. Still, a complete, sound and not altogether unattractive copy of a rare book (in either issue of the first printing). [Grolier Club, One Hundred Influential American Books Printed in Before 1900, page 116-117; Bitting, page 288 (1896 ed.) Cagle 478 (the first edition); Streeter 4206 (first issue); Sotheby's Crahan Sale. October 1984 (earning $2300)].
book (2)

Household manual and practical cook book: embracing many hundreds of valuable recipes. With numerous miscellaneous suggestions, invaluable to housekeepers

[Ladies of St. Paul's Guild, St. Paul's Episcopal Church (Waco, Tex.)] Waco: Brooks & Wallace Steam Print, 1888. Octavo (22 x 15.5 cm.), 340 pages. Advertisements. Frontispiece. List of contributors, and in the rear a separate Appendix of the names of contributors "sent in after 'The List of Contributors' was in press". ~ Evident FIRST EDITION. A church-based community cookbook. Margaret Cook records this as the second cookbook published in Texas, following The Texas Cook Book. But as The Texas Cook Book was printed in St. Louis, this is the first cookbook printed in the state of Texas. A rare collection of recipes, compiled by the Ladies of St. Paul's Guild, Waco, Texas, and issued for the elimination of $800 of the Church's debt. The list of contributors is extensive and consist of five pages; these individuals are almost all women, principally from Texas, but we see contributions from residents of California and New York; cf. the name of Henry Ward Beecher, the social reformer, whose contribution must have been added around the time of his death in 1887. A fair number of the contributions are drawn from well-known cookbooks or authors, including Miss Beecher, "Bluegrass", "Creole", "Manerva Cook", New York Cooking School, Miss Catherine Owen, Miss Parloe (sic), and the St. Louis Cooking School; famous contributors include Mrs. Sam Houston, Mrs. Robert E. Lee, and Mrs. Gen Sherman. Also included are many excellent home remedies. There is significant wear to a number of leaves, with stains and edges chipped. Dog ears, closed tears and a few burns testify to kitchen use. In green, patterned cloth, gilt-titled Practical Cook Book on the front board but not on spine. Some light soiling and wear to the cloth, but externally near very good. Handwritten note to free front endpaper, "Bound by Mr. [Hae]chter", indicates the book may have been re-bound after some years of rough use, though the binding is clearly early. In the same hand, a lengthy recipe is recorded in ink on a preliminary blank and on the frontispiece, "Belle Hilgartner's recipe for salt-rising bread". Despite its issues the book is complete and sound, and decidedly rare. [OCLC locates five copies (Baylor, Kansas State, SMU, TAMU, Tex Womens' University); Cook, page 246; not in Brown or Cagle. There appears to be some variation in the few copies recorded. In this copy, pages 289-340 consist entirely of advertisements from purveyors of goods and services in Waco. The number of advertisements apparently varies; the advertisements in the TAMU, Baylor, and Kansas State copies extend to page 341, but in the copy at Texas Women's University to just page 328.].
The Young Housekeeper and Dairymaids Directory: Containing the most valuable and original recipes in all the various branches of housekeeping : together with a collection of miscellaneous receipts and the whole art of making butter and cheese. By Mrs. Eliza A. Call

The Young Housekeeper and Dairymaids Directory: Containing the most valuable and original recipes in all the various branches of housekeeping : together with a collection of miscellaneous receipts and the whole art of making butter and cheese. By Mrs. Eliza A. Call, Fabius, Onondaga County, N.Y.

Call, Eliza A. Syracuse [N.Y.]: J.G.K. Truair & Co., printers, Journal Office, 1859. Octavo ( x cm.), 76 pages. Evident FIRST & ONLY EDITION. An unusual cookbook with a focus on dairying. The author is identified as being from Fabius, a small town in Onondaga County, New York. Andrew Smith has done us the favor of providing a profile of the author. He describes her as, "a 46 year old widow, who owned a farm in Fabius, a small community about twnety miles from Syracuse, New York. Dairy farming had been well established in the county. She is reported that she had been a housekeeper for 25 years". Smith goes on to describe the recipes are mostly "unremarkable... The exceptions are the seventeen pages related to milk, butter, and eggs, which comes as no surprise as Call was a dairy maid all her adult life" (Smith, "Origins of the New York State Dairy Industry" (Milk: Beyond the Dairy, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium, 2000, page 321). The Young Housekeeper stayed in publication for at least a few years. The Genessee Farmer of 1961 advertises the book at twenty-five cents and uses the periodical's mailing address as a contact. A short review and sample recipes appear in The Country Gentleman of 1863 and again in 1864, and in the same year in The Cultivator and in The Canada Farmer. The publisher produced just a handful of titles between 1958 and 1960, and later continued in a variety of partnerships. Text block soiled and edgeworn. Chip out of final leaf effecting the ornament, but not text, in the index. Tan wrappers soiled and worn, especially at spine, but print not effected. In custom clamshell box. Good only. Still a rare work in any condition. [OCLC locates two copies (NYU, Syracuse); not in Lowenstein].
De Honesta Voluptate. De ratione victus

De Honesta Voluptate. De ratione victus, & modo viuende. De natura rerum & arte coquendi. Libri X..

Platinae Cremonensis, Bap. [Platina; Bartolomeo Sacchi (1421-1481)]; Gottfried Hittorp (publisher) Coloniae (Koln): Ex officina Eucharistu; [Ex officina Eucharij, apud Eucharium Ceruicornum procurante M. Godefrido Hittorpio ciue Coloni], 1529. Octavo (17 x 11 cm.), ccclxviij, [4] leaves. Errata list at rear. Title within architectural woodcut border. Ornamental initials for each book. ~ Printed in Koln by Gottfried Hittorp, an early 16th century edition of what is considered the first cookery book to be printed, first issued in 1474. Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) examines the mode of living most beneficial to the human body, the pleasures of the table, and how to best enjoy one's meals and have good health. He discourses upon the quality of various meats, fish, fruits and vegetables, the best manner to prepare them, and the correct sauces to be served with various dishes. An entire chapter on wine and vinegar is included as well. Internally sound and clean; corner of C6 torn off, and small closed tear to P4 (neither effecting text). Fairly early rebind in tan, paper-covered boards; simple, gilt-titled black calf spine label. Early ink stamp "[illeg.] Grandjean, Walteville, [illeg.]" to foot of title and colophon. With two bookplates to front paste-down; one has been scratched out, and the second, is an ornate monogram. [OCLC records just one copy; Notaker 1001.17 (noting thirty-five copies, but just two in the US - LOC & UChicago); Bitting 373 (see note); Drexel 654].
The Newengland [New England] Farmer

The Newengland [New England] Farmer, or, Georgical Dictionary : containing a compendious account of the ways and methods in which the important art of husbandry, in all its various branches, is, or may be, practised, to the greatest advantage in this country

Deane, Samuel Worcester, Mass: Printed at the Press of Isaiah Thomas, by Leonard Worcester, for Isaiah Thomas, 1797. Octavo (23 x 13.5 cm.) viii, 396 pages. Detailed table of contents. ~ Second edition, corrected, improved, and enlarged, by the author; originally published in 1790. "The first work of the kind published in this country" (Sabin). "This encyclopedic work... contains the results of his own experiments and reveals wide acquaintance with the observations and experimental work of other American authors" (DAB). "No mere compendium or digest of English writings on agriculture, it was based upon Deane's own experience and a familiarity with American as well as European work" (Hindle). The Reverend Samuel Deane (1733-1814) was the first American since Jared Elliot (1685-1763) to generate serious interest in a scientific approach to agriculture. He experimented with, and wrote about crop rotation, soil erosion, cover cropping and more. The popularity of this work encouraged American farmers to look backward to Elliots's various books, and for a new generation of others interested in agricultural improvement to publish their own works. Some browning and light staining throughout; darker stain to bottom of first few leaves, including the title. Text block sound. Sound in full brown calf; binding rubbed, and lacking the original spine label; otherwise very good. Overall, near very good. The front fly leaf bears the ownership inscription, "Ichabod Rollins, July 6, 1810". [OCLC locates numerous copies; Evans; 32020; Rink 1105 (for the first); Sabin; 19056].
The Handbook of Dining; or

The Handbook of Dining; or, Corpulency and Leanness Scientifically Considered… Comprising the art of dining on correct principles consistent with easy digestion, the avoidance of corpulency, and the cure of leanness, by Brillat-Savarin. Translated by L.F. Simpson

Brillat-Savarin, [Jean-Anthelme]; (Leonard Francis Simpson, translator) New York: D. Appleton and Company, 443 & 445 Broadway, 1865. Small octavo (18.5 x 12 cm.), 200, [4] pages. Advertisements. The First American Edition of the English language translation of Leonard Francis Simpson. The earliest English language translation was that of Fayette Robinson, published in Philadelphia in 1854. Simpson's translation here is quite unfaithful to the original, admitting in the Introduction that "Many parts are, however, condensed, others omitted, as not suited to the present tone of society." Starting in 1864, editions of Simpson's translation (published in the UK) strayed even further, with emphasis placed on a rejection of gourmandise, and the title to what we have here. Quite a departure from Brillat-Savarin's original. But the translator did have high hopes for this book to affect a change upon Britain, and presumably in America with this issue. The Translator's Preface has been omitted in this edition, which is a shame, as it takes the form of a discussion among Olympians, where the goddess Gasterea speaks up to Jupiter, informing him that, "There is a race... of bold sea-girt islanders who worship me well in their way; indeed, mighty fires of coal never cease to burn in my honour; but it a melancholy fact, that London does not know 'How to Dine!'" The author proposes a reform movement starting with this book. In publisher's blind ruled and gilt-titled burgundy cloth. Very near fine. [Bitting, page 437; Cagle 104].
Vineyard Recipes

Vineyard Recipes, by The Delta Alpha Class of the First Baptist Church of Vineyard Haven, Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

Lord, Annie F. Vineyard Haven: Falmouth Publishing of Falmouth, Mass, 1920. Octavo (23 x 15.5 cm), 48 pages. Advertisements. Index (actually a table of contents). The title page includes the statement, "This class was organized by Mrs. Annie F. Lord in 1912". A community cookbook of two hundred eighty recipes, attributed in many cases to women with surnames still associated with the island's history, such as Downs, Bangs, Tilton, Chadwick, and Merrill. In evidence is the search for a footing along the continuum of acculturation: Hungarian Goulash, Mexican Rice, Dixie Spoon Bread, Russian Beet Soup, and Portuguese Fluffy Cake jostle for attention among "Old Island Recipes" such as Salt Codfish with Potatoes and Sea Moss Blanc-Mange, not to forget "Gay Head Specialities" from the lighthouse neighborhood, such as Chowder with pork and quahogs. A definitive dating seems elusive. An advertisement for a firm called Issokson's (page 14) places Vineyard Recipes after 1914, while another adjacent on the same page relates to real-estate activity that cannot be verified until the early 1920s. Some confirmation of a terminus post quem may be supplied by the note "Czecho Slovakia" attached to a recipe for Kolache (that is, kolá e), a geographical designation unlikely to have been in general circulation before the close of World War I. Vineyard Haven is the main port of entry to Martha's Vineyard, a neighborhood within the town of Tisbury. The First Baptist Church was established in 1837, its congregation still active, meeting in its "new" building - dedicated in 1885 - at the corner of Spring and Williams Streets. A little interior staining and several corrections to recipes in pencil. In stapled, black-decorated, teal blue wrapper, with an image of three sailboats in profile, with full spinnakers; some staining to wrappers, and two pencil eraser size chips from rear panel. Near very good. Unrecorded. [No copies reported in OCLC; not in Brown or Cagle].
Modern Traveling Luxury on the Rock Island Route

Modern Traveling Luxury on the Rock Island Route

[Trade card - Rock Island & Pacific Railroad] Chicago: Cameron, Amberg & Co., Printers; [and] Shober & Carqueville Lithographers, 1860. Trade card (13 x 7.5 cm.), printed both sides, the verso in chromolithography depicting the interior of a dining car with tables set in anticipation of the passengers' meals. Text on the recto reads, "These Dining and Restaurant Cars run on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad, between Chicago and Omaha, are, in all respects, the most luxurious traveling conveniences on the American continent. A bottle of fine French wine is served for an additional fifteen cents, with an Extra Fine Meal, for which only seventy-five cents is charged. Passengers will bear in mind that these are not the commonly-called Hotel Cars, with their attendant high prices and bed-room odors. Our Dining Cars are used for no other purpose. All meals on Overland Trains are served in them. A. Smith, Sup't Dining Car Line." The company became the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad in 1866 (the company changed names frequently). In the mid-1870s, the company established its Chicago-Omaha route. As such, this card likely dates between the mid-1860s and mid-1870s. The railroad became known for introducing the first "elegant" dining cars to passenger trains, and the lithograph on this trade card (by Shober & Carqueville Lithographers of Chicago) exudes elegance indeed. No tears, folds or bends; slight glue residue on back.
A California Cook Book

A California Cook Book

Williamson, Sarah M. (compiler); [Lionel Josaphare (illustrator)] San Francisco: Published by Town Talk Press, 88 First Street, 1917. Tall octavo (28.5 x 18 cm.), 47, [3] pages. Illustrated wrappers with envelope fold. Includes the cancel leaf tipped-in at the rear, "Some War Recipes and Others". FIRST EDITION. An early and attractively produced San Francisco cookbook, issued as the city was finally putting the Great Earthquake behind it, but the nation was on the brink of entering the Great War. Recipes are attributed, and a separate list of contributors is included. The list is a who's Who of San Francisco society at the moment. In addition to expected recipe sections such as Soups and Sauces, Fish: Fresh and Salt, Entrees, Punch, Flesh, Fowl and Game, Vegetables, Puddings and Pudding Sauces, Fancy Desserts, etc., also included are The Economical Hamburger, Hot Cakes and Waffles, and Favorite "Kosher" Dishes. Some of the recipes are given in great detail, such as a Gigot of Lamb, Lilianne, contributed by Raphael Weill, Chicken Fricassee with Noodles, by Mrs. Joseph Steinhart, or Marshmallow Pudding by Mrs. Roach, which has two added suggestions on additions to the dish from a Miss Ray Bromley and a Mrs. Mayo. In illustrated tan wrapper, lithographically printed in brown with an illustration by San Francisco artist and writer Lionel Josophare (author of the 1909 classic The World of Suckers). The text block is separating between the first and second signatures, though the wrapper is holding the whole together with some security. There is a light tide line at top and bottom throughout, but the pages are clean and bright. A bit better than good. [OCLC locates thirteen copies, almost all in California].
Housekeeping in Old Virginia. Containing Contributions from Two Hundred and Fifty of Virginia's Noted Housewives

Housekeeping in Old Virginia. Containing Contributions from Two Hundred and Fifty of Virginia’s Noted Housewives, Distinguished for Their Skill in the Culinary Art and Other Branches of Domestic Economy. Edited by Marion Cabell Tyree

Tyree, Marion Cabel (editor) Louisville, Ky: J.P. Morton and Company, 1879. Thick octavo (19.5 x 13.5 cm.), [7], vi, [1], viii-xviii, [1], 20-528, [2] pages. Index; list of contributors. ~ Third printing, following the issues of 1877 (New York: G.W. Carleton) and 1878 (Richmond, Va.: J.W. Randolph), all with like pagination. Bitting indicates an issue of 1876, but none are located, and we note the preface by the author is dated "January, 1877". We have handled two states of this Morton 1879 printing: state "A" contains an additional 24 pages of advertisements, and plain salmon-colored endpapers; state "B" lacks the advertisements, and the endpapers contain printed testimonials (front) and notices of the press (rear). Both issues lack the frontispiece illustration that appeared in the 1877 and 1878 issues, depicting a smiling African-American woman at work in the kitchen. And finally, both 1879 states contain a small but important shift in the subtitle, replacing "Ladies in Virginia" with "of Virginia's Noted Housewives". The list of contributors provides their locations, primarily various cities and counties within Virginia. Marion Cabell Tyree (1826 - 1912) was the last surviving granddaughter of Founding Father and Governor of Virginia Patrick Henry (1736 - 1799) and the great granddaughter of Revolutionary War Colonel John Cabell. During the Civil War, Marion kept a small sanitarium for the wounded in Lynchburg, VA and helped establish one of more than 30 hospitals in the city. Bright, quick-minded, and entrepreneurial, she gathered family recipes from friends and relatives, giving credit to all the contributors - listing the men by their names, the women by the title of their husbands or just initials, and a former slave by her full name (though in quotation marks, "Mozis Addums"... Richmond. Possessing a great aptitude for domestic economy, Tyree not only included recipes for meals, desserts, wine, cordials, etc., but also chapters on housekeeping, housecleaning, and remedies for the sick. Her book is still considered one of the most influential cookbooks to represent the culture of the Southern United States. ~ Offsetting from newsclipping has slightly darkened two pages. Brown cloth with beveled edges; gilt-stamped decoration and title to front board and to spine. Edges and corners a bit rubbed, otherwise fine. With the ownership signature of "M.H. Keating" to preliminary blank. A lovely copy of a book normally found well-used. [Bitting page 469; Brown 4275 (citing the 1877 issue); not in Cagle].
The Practical Farmer

The Practical Farmer, Gardener, and Housewife; Or, Dictionary of Agriculture, Horticulture, and Domestic Economy: Including Descriptions of the Most Improved Kinds of Live Stock, Their Proper Treatment, Diseases, and Remedies, an Account of the Best Sorts of Fruits, with Instructions for the Management of Fruit Trees Generally; Together with Directions for the Culture of the “Morus Multicaulis,” for the Raising of Silk; Also, with Remarks on the Cultivation of Some Select Flowers and Ornamental shrubs

Hooper, Edward James Cincinnati, (OH): Published by Geo. Conclin; [Stereotyped by Glezen & Sheperd], 1839. Octavo (21 x 13 cm.), 544 pages. Illustrated. Second printing, following the first of 1839. A dictionary-style compendium of agricultural information. Hooper is perhaps best known for his later work, Hooper's Western Fruit Book, which appeared in 1857. "One of the Cincinnati horticultural circle, which just before the civil war included probably the most enthusiastic horticulturalists in American was E. J. Hooper... In all parts of the West in the middle of the nineteenth century, what was written in Hooper was the final word" (Massachusetts Horticultural Society Catalogue 146). Hinges starting; some foxing throughout. Contemporary full calf, with boards mottled and edgeworn; bottom inch of leather at spine is chipped away. Gilt-titled spine label in black calf. Good or a bit better. Scarce. [OCLC locates fifteen copies, but only three in the south (LSU, Kentucky, Northern Kentucky); Cf. Sabin 32780 (giving 1840 as the publication date)].